Targeting the HENRYs

Hidden Speakeasies and $35 Cocktails

As the Uber driver dropped us off, I wondered if we had the address wrong. We were looking for the entrance to a cocktail bar that my daughter had categorized as “secret.” My wife and I were back in San Francisco for the long weekend. The plan was to have a couple of pre-dinner drinks before heading off to Cala for some Mexican food.

The fading sign on the storefront read: Wilson & Wilson – Private Detective Agency. If there was an entrance, it was not apparent from the outside. A sign hung from the far end of the building, it read “Anti-Saloon League, San Francisco Branch.”

Anti-Saloon League? In San Francisco? I wondered if the pro-prohibition lobby still had any support outside the few dry counties in the United States that continue to ban the sale of alcohol.

A few feet away, a security guard appeared to be chatting with a middle-aged couple lined up behind a red rope in front of an unmarked door.

“Kind of early for clubbing,” I muttered to my wife as I looked around.

To visitors, San Francisco’s Tenderloin District can come off as gritty. However, to the High-Earners-Not-Rich-Yet (HENRYs) of San Francisco, it is a great neighbourhood to check out cool bars and restaurants.

The art of the upscale

Luxury brands and services are recognizing the global value of targeting the HENRYs — customers who earn between US$100,000 and US$250,000. As per Deloitte’s Global Powers of Luxury Goods 2019, upscale brands are explicitly targeting the socially conscious millennial HENRYs by making their operations more sustainable, ethical, and tech-friendly.

Pricey Hermès scarves, Cartier watches, Christian Louboutin shoes, Tumi bags, and other such luxury products fall within the means of these high-earners, as an occasional indulgence. However, the younger HENRYs are more inclined to chase experiences over things.

The HENRYs have disposable income

The hospitality industry stands to benefit from the spending habits of the HENRYs who are known to frequent bars and restaurants. Customers are seeking dining-out experiences that go beyond chic décor and classic cocktails. With creative cocktails priced north of $35, bars such as Toronto’s Barchef seems to have perfected the art of the upscale.  

A cloak and dagger experience

“Can I help you?” Sensing our confusion, the security guard had sauntered over to us.

“We have reservations at The Wilson,” we established our motive.

“Do you have the password?” the security guard asked as he went on to check our IDs.

“Yes.” Apparently, my daughter was aware that a password was a requirement for entry.

As he made us line up behind the red rope, he spoke into a wireless headset. I assumed that he was signaling to someone inside that we had passed the pre-screening tests.  

The hostess was cheerful but business like. She made sure that we had the right password before explaining the rules: No phones, no photography, no standing at the bar, every seating comes with a time limit…

As we stepped inside from the bright evening light, the hostess pulled out a flashlight to usher us through the narrow multi-level passages within the bar. As my eyes adjusted to the darkness, I could see patrons huddled over tables as they enjoyed their libations and engaged in quiet conversations.

A secret door at the back of the bar led to another dimly-lit hall — The Wilson and Wilson, Private Detective Agency. I later found out that we had walked through Bourbon & Branch, an unmarked speakeasy-style bar to get to The Wilson.

A hidden speakeasy within a speakeasy!

The menu, personalized with my daughter’s name, looked like a detective’s case folio. The dinner-style cocktail tasting menu offered aperitifs, mains, and “spirit-forward” digestifs that you could order as a “flight” of three, or as individual drinks. The cocktail prices, though not outrageous, were on the higher end of the spectrum.

The experience was undeniably unique. The cocktails, tasty. The prices, high yet justifiable.

Clearly, the owners of Bourbon and Branch had taken an everyday cocktail bar and transformed it into a cloak and dagger experience targeting the well-heeled cocktail aficionados of San Francisco.

Maintaining the flare and the intrigue

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As we settled our bill and set out for dinner, I wondered about the longevity of establishments such as the Barchef and Wilson and Wilson. Barchef offered flare, the Wilson offered intrigue.

What would it take to bring customers back when the novelty wears off?

In a staff-heavy service industry, maintaining high-calibre operations in expensive cities in North America has to come with its challenges. Perhaps, the owners have business plans and timelines for the bars to run its course before revamping it with another creative theme.

For now, Wilson and Wilson, Private Detective Agency seem to have gotten it right. If you ever happen to be in San Francisco, you may want to check it out.