Budapest – A Tale of Two Towns

Budapest is a tale of two towns, Buda and Pest.

Looking down at Pest from the Buda side is like old money looking down on the nouveau riche. To its residents, Buda is the classier side of the city. After all, the Buda Castle and many of the city’s attractions such as Fisherman’s Bastion and Matthias Church are located there.

Buda diehards will tell you that the best part of living on the Pest side is that they have great views of Buda.

Ouch!

It is sort of like being a 905er in Toronto.

Friendly rivalries aside, Budapest is a beautiful city.

I have to agree that the view of the Buda Castle and the rolling hills behind it from the Pest side is picturesque. The Hungarian Parliament Building and the town of Pest, viewed from the Buda side, is almost as breathtaking as the former.

Unlike Prague and Vienna, Budapest feels more culturally diverse.

That makes sense.

Historically, Hungary has suffered numerous wars and invasions that date back to the 9th Century. The Huns, Goths, Mongols, Turks, the Holy Roman Emperors, and others have sought to occupy or control Hungary at various points during the medieval, renaissance, and the modern era. Politically speaking, the former communist country is now a liberal democracy, although media reports suggest a shift to the right.

But I was not in Budapest to research its history and politics. I was here to do touristy stuff.

For a start, my room at the Budapest Marriott Hotel, on the Pest side, offered excellent views of the Danube, the Buda Castle, and the Elizabeth Bridge. It was a perfect place to unwind with a nightcap after a hectic day of sightseeing.

Our plan for Budapest was simple. See the major attractions, walk the streets to feel the Budapest vibe, and sample local food and beers.

Along with Andrea, our tour guide, we took in the major attractions on both the sides that included bridges, churches, castles, thermal baths, historic buildings, and monuments. As we went from one site to another, it crossed my mind that North American attractions seldom have religious significance. Churches hardly ever make the list of top ten attractions in cities like Toronto and New York.  

Here are a few things about Budapest that stayed with me.

Hungarian Forint

In relative terms, I felt that Budapest was a little less expensive than Prague and Vienna.

But when you have to hand over thousands worth of bills to buy a small thing, it can be confusing. Though the Hungarians will accept the Euro, they prefer to deal in Forint. Going from Czech Koruna in Prague to Euros in Vienna to the Forint in Budapest didn’t help. Imagine having to do the mental math every time you want to tip someone 546 Ft (US$2)!

Food and Beer

Budapest has a vibrant food scene that includes four Michelin star restaurants

Numerous restaurants and bars lined the boardwalk and around the Vorosmarty Square, both of which were just a short walk from our hotel. Many of the restaurants explicitly offered “tourist menus” that included Hungarian Goulash, Paprika Chicken, and the local favorite Soproni beer. Strangely, that made us feel that we were not walking into tourist traps.

Thermal Baths

The baths are a thing in Budapest.

The Roman and Turkish influences from their past may have something to do with it. Locals and tourists alike flock to them for their touted medicinal and healing effects. I gave it a pass. A communal bath did not appeal to me. Perhaps, I missed out. It wasn’t such a long time ago that I passed up on a dip in the river Ganges and salvation. 

Oh, well!

Here’s an excellent guide to Budapest’s thermal baths from Lonely Planet.

Ruin Bars

As the name implies, ruin bars are bars built among ruins to offer cheap drinks to its patrons.

Unlike dive bars in other cities, ruin bars have history behind them. Symbolic of the persecution and forceful evacuations of the Nazi era, dilapidated buildings and unkempt parking lots within the Jewish Quarters have provided the perfect backdrop for ruin bars. With its mismatched furniture, garish colors, and chaotic ambiance, a visit to a ruin bar should be on your things to do, even if you are not looking for cheap beers.

Check out this post on Budapest’s ruin bars.

New York Café

The New York Café is one of the most beautiful cafes in the world.

It is worth a visit if you have a “nice” restaurant experience included in your plan. Located in the New York Palace Hotel, the fabled café has had its ups and downs including extensive damages during World War II and other political and historical transitions. Famous for its “afternoon tea for two,” it is a popular tourist attraction as well as a sought-after eating establishment in Budapest.

If you have plans to visit Europe, Budapest is a city that deserves your consideration.

The Prague-Vienna-Budapest route is one that you can comfortably do in ten days.

You should go.